Glossary of Soapmaking Oils

Posted by admin | Articles, Glossary of Soap Making Oils, Supplies & Ingredients | Sunday 1 March 2009 6:40 pm

Almond Oil (Sweet) - Sweet almond oil is obtained from the dried kernels of the almond tree. This oil is a favorite carrier oil for essential oil aromatherapy blends. It has no scent and is a great nutrient for softening and conditioning the skin. It’s known to be especially suitable for eczema, itchy, dry and inflamed skin. It’s very lubricating but not very penetrating. This oil is widely used in lotions, lotion bars, balms, massage oil, and soap. Sweet almond oil saponifies easily and produces a mild, conditioning soap with a good, stable lather. It can be used as a large percentage of the fats in the soap base. However it is quite expensive, so is usually added as a superfatting agent at trace. It’s recommended that you add just one ounce per pound of fats to the soap batch. It goes rancid quickly and should be stored in a cool place or refrigerated.

Apricot Kernel Oil - A perfect all-around oil, it can be used for mature skin because of its high Vitamin A content. It’s especially nourishing and extremely gentle. It’s an excellent massage oil, as well. Great for super-fatting soap, apricot kernel oil is a light but rich oil and is excellent for making overnight creme or for sensitive or dehydrated skin. It is similar to sweet almond oil but, again, is more suitable for sensitive and prematurely aged skin. For soapmaking, one should use one or two ounces for every pound of fat. Stores well under any condition but extreme heat will lessen the shelf life of 12-14 months.

Avocado Oil - Avocado oil is obtained from the pulp of the avocado pear and is one of the most effective ingredients used in cosmetics. It contains proteins, amino acids, vitamins A, D, and E, and is very therapeutic. Our skin absorbs this oil and responds well to its healing qualities. It is also known to regenerate skin cells, soften tissue, and heal scaly skin and scalps. It does not need to be used in great quantities for it to be effective. Beneficial for all types of skin but especially good for mature or sun-damaged skin. Should be kept in a cool place or refrigerated; has an excellent shelf life.

Calendula Oil - Known for its skin care properties, the Calendula herb is both regenerative and anti-inflammatory and has been known to successfully heal a host of skin problems including wounds and burns as well as both softening and soothing dry skin. Using up to 20% as part of main oils will take advantage of this herb’s great potential. Adding a small amount to superfat will also realize the regenerative and anti-inflammatory benefits.

Canola Oil - Canola oil provides both stable lather and conditioning properties and is high in protein. Slow to saponify, this oil can be substituted for more pricey base oils as it does contribute moisturizing qualities and protein.

Castor Oil - Castor oil acts as a humectant by attracting moisture to the skin and then retaining it there. Used alone, this oil produces a soft, transparent soap. Use in shampoo bars and soap bars for huge, thick lather. Keeping this oil to a smaller amount than the other base oils will help to provide a harder bar.

Chamomile-Infused Oil - Antibacterial, antiseptic, and disinfectant. Most noted for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Used in the treatment of burns, dry skin, and in rejuvenation treatments.

Cocoa Butter - Cocoa butter is obtained from the fruit of the Cacao tree. With its wonderful moisturizing qualities, cocoa butter lays down a protective barrier which holds moisture in the skin, making this an excellent skin softener. It makes a wonderful ingredient in lotion bars, lip balms, body butters, soaps and belly balms for expectant mothers. It is solid at room temperature but melts readily on contact with the skin. Limit cocoa butter in your soapmaking to around 15 percent of your total fats and oils. It can be used to counter the stickiness of fats such as shea butter and lanolin. Creates a hard bar of soap and traces quickly. Those who are prone to breakouts should not use cocoa butter in products used on their face because it can clog pores. Shelf life of approximately 2-4 years.

Coconut Oil - Coconut oil is obtained from copra, which is dried coconut meat. A must-have for CP soapmakers. Moisturizing when used as a percentage of your base oils in soap, but drying when used in large quantities. Coconut oil should be no more than 20-30% of your fats and oils in your soap recipes. Creates a hard bar of soap with quick, fluffy lather, even in cold seawater. It has a shelf life of approximately 2 years.

Hazelnut Oil - Hazelnut oil is derived from many species of the hazelnut tree. It is known for its astringent qualities, helps tone and tighten the skin, and because of this, it is best used for those who have oily skin but do want to abstain from using oils. Because this oil is moisturizing and is easily absorbed by the skin, it is used in creams, lip balms, and soaps. Shelf life is 6 months to 1 year.

Hemp Seed Oil - This oil is rich in vitamins A and E as well as essential fatty acids and protein which soothes and heals dry and/or irritated skin. Can be hard to saponify, vulnerable to spoilage, and cost prohibitive. Makes a terrific additive to your soap or toiletries as it is easily absorbed by the skin and is highly moisturizing.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil - Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, or Soybean Oil, is high in both linoleic and oleic acids and creates a soft soap. Inexpensive solution for majority base oils. Provides stable lather and “bulk” to your soap. Contains protein, vitamins, and minerals. Soothing for all skin types.

Jojoba Oil - Jojoba oil comes from the beans of the shrub like plant, simmondsia chinensis. It is actually not an oil at all, but a liquid wax. A wonderful ingredient in soaps, creams, lotions, balms and massage oils. It is highly penetrating and closely resembles our natural sebum. Has been used as a treatment for skin inflammations, acne, psoriasis, and eczema. It has natural anti-oxidant properties and is said to help extend the shelf life of other oils. Jojoba contains vitamin E, extending its shelf life to nearly indefinite.

Kokum Butter - Kokum Butter is a solid white fat that is extracted from the kernel of the fruit of the kokum palm in India. Kokum butter helps reduce degeneration of the skin cells and restores elasticity. Use kokum butter is soaps, balms, belly balms, foot care products and other emollient skin treatments. Highly recommended to those that are crafting cosmetics with the intent of producing a skin healing end product. Kokum is a firmer butter than Mango or Shea but not as hard as cocoa butter and is more quickly absorbed into the skin and does not leave a greasy feel.

Kukui Nut Oil - The Kukui nut tree is the official tree of Hawaii and has been used by natives of this island for hundreds of years. Kukui nut oil is non-greasy, high in essential fatty acids and easily absorbed by the skin. Research has shown that this oil can be used to help with acne, eczema, sunburn and more. Perfect for lip balm, lotions and other toiletries. A bit pricey for soap but a little goes a long way. Add a bit at trace for a richer soap.

Macadamia Nut Oil - Like Kukui Nut oil, a true luxury oil. Also easily absorbed into the skin. Excellent for toiletries such as lotions and balms. Fairly pricey for use in soaping.

Mango Butter - Cold pressed from the seed kernel of the Mango tree, this highly prized butter is an exceptional quality base ingredient for body care products and soap making recipes. For lip balms, hand and body balms, belly balms for the mother to be, Mango Butter adds a rich smoothness to the blend of oils and beeswax. Perfect for adding super-emolliency to your soaps and balms. Solid at room temperature, you may use this in any recipe that calls for cocoa butter or Shea butter.

Neem Oil - Neem oil has antiseptic properties and can be used in the treatment of dandruff, skin conditions, and oily skin. This oil also has use in insect repellants. Easily saponified, creates a hard bar, adds conditioning properties. This oil is excellent for both soapmaking and topical toiletries.

Olive Oil - Olive Oil is perhaps the most traditional soapmaking oil, and pure olive oil soap, known as Castile soap, is gentle enough for a newborn and is actually recommended for babies and others with very sensitive skin. Olive oil attracts external moisture, holds it close to the skin, and forms a breathable film which prevents loss of internal moisture. Used in conjunction with other oils, olive oil makes for a stable lather and conditioning bar of soap. Shelf life of approximately 2 years if kept in a cool place.

Palm Oil - Used to create a hard bar of soap. Since it’s less soluble in water, its firmness holds throughout use.

Palm Kernel Oil - Palm Kernel oil is produced from the palm tree and is highly saturated and contains large proportions of lauric acid. Provides a very hard, white bar that lathers well. Can have a drying effect when used in excess. Recommended percentage is up to 30%.

Peanut Oil - Peanut Oil is rich in vitamin E, non-drying, conditioning, and is readily absorbable. Less expensive than other bulk oils makes peanut oil a cost effective base for most soap recipes. Combined with other base oils like coconut, peanut oils provides fluffy, rich lather and conditioning qualities. There is some debate as to whether soap made with peanut oil could have a adverse effect on those allergic to peanuts. We would just suggest making sure your soap is clearly labeled if you do decide to use this oil. Shelf life 6 months to 1 year. Keep on cool place.

Safflower Oil - Safflower oil is moisturizing but has a short shelf life and is somewhat tempermental. Great for toiletries. Adds time to soap making due to its longer trace time. Best used as a minority rather than a majority oil. Shelf life approximately 1 year, longer if kept cool.

Shea Butter - Shea Butter comes from the fruit pits of the African butter tree. Moisturzing and nourishing. Fairly inexpensive and easy to find. For thousands of years, shea butter has been used by African healers for treatment of skin disorders. Thought to protect the skin from the effects of the sun and wind, while repairing cellular degeneration. It provides the skin with all of the essential elements of fats and vitamins that are necessary for the skin’s healthy balance. The first choice in natural skin care and fine body care products, this butter forms a breathable, water-resistant film and is the leading natural product for moisturizing. Shelf life 1 year, longer if refrigerated.

Vitamin E Oil - Great for preventing rancidity and as an anti-oxidant in creams, lotions, baby products, cosmetics and more.Blocks air from skin to prevent dehydration. It is used as a natural preservative.

Wheat Germ Oil - Wheat Germ oil is a great ingredient high in natural source Vitamin E, A, D, proteins, Lecithin, and Squalene. Wheat germ has been applied externally for numerous irritations including roughness of the skin, cracking, chaffing and many crafters of cosmetics use it successfully to help reverse the effects of wrinkling. The first ingredient in quality skin care products. Contains protein, minerals, and vitamins. Has been used int he treatment of prematurely aged skin, eczema, and psoriasis. Shelf life approximately 6 months. Keep cool.

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