by: James Pickavance

Goats’ milk is rich with nutrients like proteins, vitamin A, B12, B6, E, beta casein, and minerals. Skin absorbs beta caseins easily and helps in rapid hydration of the dry skins. Goats’ milk helps in moisturizing and soothing the skin as it is natural emollient.

It can make soap creamy, moisturizing, as well as lovely. More over goats’ milk will lower the Ph value of soaps, so that it becomes skin friendly. Goats’ milk soaps are effective for acne treatment as well as other problems of skins. With these qualities, goat milk soaps have positives for regular use.

One can easily make goat milk soap at home. You might be wondering how to make goat soap at your home.

For soap making goats’ milk soaps, milk is used as either liquid milk or powdered milk. It is easier to buy powdered goat milk from food stores. Use either pure milk or equal quantity of water and milk. There is hot process and cold process for making soap with liquid milk.

Two ounces of glycerine, three cups of goats milk, two teaspoon of borax, six and half ounces of lye, one and half pounds of fat etc makes a simple recipe for goats milk soap. Like this, various recipes are there for making goat soaps.

Melt and pour method is widely used for making goat milk soaps. You can buy both bases of pour soap as well as goats milk melt. Decide the recipe for the soap. Decide the type of molds for using.

Decide the shape of the soap that you want to make. Once you stock the goats melt milk as well as base for pour soap, you can look for colours and fragrances for the soap.

It is important that you follow the recipe for goat soap making. Using Vaseline, grease the molds properly so that soap does not stick after it sets. Melt the fat and cool it up to temperature range of eighty-five and ninety-degree Celsius. Pour lye into the paper cup, and then add goat milk. Slowly keep adding the lye. Mix the solution with hand mixer.

Chemical reaction will change the colour of milk to golden one, and the mixture becomes hot. So let the mixture to cool up to eighty-five degrees. To this mixture add glycerine, oatmeal, borax and mix well with the hand mixture for at least fifteen minutes.

Then keep it to rest and then mix at regular intervals of five minutes. Until noticeable changes takes place in consistency keep continuing the above process.

Pour the mixture of soap into the molds and allow it to set. Cover the top part of the molds with cheesecloth. For 24 hours, keep this soap at room temperature, which must be constant.

Remove the cloth off the top of molds and then take the soaps out of it. If the molds used is larger one, cut the soap into equal sized bars.

It is better to cure the soap by the air-drying method for a period of four to six weeks before using.

by: Chere Deshayes

What Is Soap?

Soap is the oldest cleanser around. It is created by a chemical reaction between oils, water and lye. Although lye is used to make soap there is no lye left after saponification (the chemical reaction that makes soap) is complete. There is no such thing as a bar of soap that was made without the use of lye. Different kinds of soap are made using a variety of different oils. Both animal & plant oils can be used in the soap making process, each adding different qualities to the soap.

Conventional Bar Soaps

Much of the soap available in the store today is not really soap at all, but a detergent. Detergents are a petroleum based product, like gasoline and kerosene. Have you ever noticed how regular soap leaves your skin feeling dry, itchy and tight? Alkali, the most common irritant in soap is often the culprit. Others ingredients in mass-marketed soap have been proven harmful to human health and can cause severe skin irritations in some people. These include ingredients such as DEA, Isopropyl Alcohol, BHT and Triclosan (commonly found in anti-bacterial soap). The most common ingredient in conventional bar soaps is sodium tallowate. It is the natural product of combining tallow, or beef fat, with lye. The attractiveness for tallow for mass producing soap is that it processes quickly, produces a hard bar of soap and is cheap and plentiful.

The New Bar On The Block

While there is nothing new about handmade soap, its popularity is growing rapidly. The sales of handmade soap continue to grow as part of society’s movement toward buying products that are healthy and good for the environment. With the ever increasing use of synthetic chemicals and studies about their dangerous effects, consumers are on the lookout for more “green” alternatives.

Benefits Of Handmade Soap

Evidence abounds of the healing properties of a handmade bar of soap. Those who suffer from skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, as well as people that have sensitive skin or are hypoallergenic often find immediate relief by switching to handmade soap. Compared to store bought soap, handmade soap is very mild. They are often made from vegetable-based oils, such as olive, coconut, and palm and do not contain the potentially harmful chemicals found in conventional bar soap. One of the biggest differences between commercial soap and handmade soap is glycerine. Glycerine is a clear liquid that absorbs water from the air and is a key factor in keeping skin soft and healthy. Glycerin soap is especially good for sensitive and delicate skin, and for children. Because it is a high quality by-product in the soap making process, many mass commercial soap manufacturers often extract the glycerine and sell it as a by-product to be used in higher priced products like lotions and skin creams.

Handmade Soap Is Good For Your Body

For adults, the skin covers approximately 20 square feet of the human body. It is the largest human organ and is the bodies first line of defense against dehydration, temperature, infection and harmful substances. Handmade soaps give your skin the care it deserves and make bathing a gentle, soothing experience.

Handmade Soap Is Good For Your Mind

For many of us today, life seems to move at an often hectic pace. While the stress of everyday life increases, personal time is at minimum. A fragrant, handmade bar of soap is a simple indulgence that fosters a feeling of relaxation and being pampered. Treat yourself or someone you love to the benefits of handmade soap!

About The Author

Chere Deshayes is the owner of Bath Plantation, a company that specializes in fine handcrafted bath and body products. Subscribe to her FREE newsletter at http://www.bathplantation.com/newsletter.html or visit her site at http://www.bathplantation.com.

by: Teresa James

Cleanliness and proper grooming can be very important to the continued good health of our beloved pets. But bathing our puppy or adult dog can often prove to be a challenge. There are many questions, myths and opinions floating around when discussing the best care for different dog types and temperaments. Check out these dog bathing tips to get some great ideas so you’ll be prepared for your next dog bath and grooming session.

How often should you bath your dog?

How often your pet will need a dog bath will depend on the breed and what type of activities the dog is involved in. It’s best to bathe your dog only when your dog is really dirty. Just use your nose – that tell tale doggy smell will let you know it’s time for a bath.

If a dog is bathed too often the skin will be stripped of its natural, protective oils. This will result in dry itchy skin, which will cause your dog to scratch, further irritating the already sensitive skin. If you need to bathe your dog more frequently make sure to use a pet shampoo that will also moisturize your dog’s skin. You may also want to follow up with an after bath pet coat conditioner specifically formulated for dry skin.

Where’s the best place to bath your dog?

In warm weather you can bathe your dog outside. Pick a place that will not turn to mud when it gets wet. It’s a good idea a have a washtub large enough for your dog to stand up in and fill it with a few inches of water. Water straight from a garden hose may start off warm, but usually gets cold very fast. If your dog starts to resist and shiver, as the water gets colder, you may want to consider another option.

Many pet owners have overcome this problem by purchasing a raised dog bath. This convenient, back-saving dog bath is often used with a water temperature mixer valve assembly that completely solves this problem. With the proper equipment set up you’ll be able to save your back and control the water temperature of your dog’s bath. Some temperature mixer valve assemblies hook up to your existing washing machine water supply. At bath time just connect an ordinary garden hose to the valve assembly and run it outside to the bathing area. This convenient type of back-saving dog bath can even be used for bathing your dog inside.

If you choose to bathe your dog inside, regulating the water temperature shouldn’t be a problem. But deciding where to bathe your dog might be. Small dogs and puppies can usually be bathed easily in a sink or a washtub. For bigger dogs you will need something bigger like a bathtub or a large shower stall. And of course, the bigger your dog is the bigger the potential hassles.

Are you tired of chasing and wrestling with your dog at bath time?

Many dog owners solve this problem by purchasing a raised dog bath. An ergonomically designed dog grooming bathing tub elevates your dog to a level that’s comfortable for you and keeps your dog securely contained, taking the hassle out of washing your dog. You’ll get the job done in half the time, save your back and stay dryer. The raised dog bath that is available in most pet shops and online stores will also save your dog stress at bath time. No more slipping and sliding. Your dog will really feel secure standing on the padded non-slip surface. This type of raised dog bath has been recommended by Dog World Magazine in their "Notable Products for the New Millennium".

Does your dog tend to get away from you during a bath?

Bathing your dog is a challenging, but essential, part of dog grooming. It’s funny how your dog will cleverly evade you when you try to get him into a dog bath, but will be just as determined to get past you when you don’t want him to jump into the water at the beach.

If you’re washing your dog in a room with a door make sure to close it so that your dog will not see an escape route or get very far if he prematurely gets out of the bath. This way you’ll have an easier time getting him back in the tub to finish the job. It can be a challenge bathing a dog that’s wiggling around but the challenge gets a little tougher when your dog is an escape artist. If your dog takes any opportunity to get away from you at bath time you may want to consider restraining your dog.

Restraints are used during bath time to avoid injury to you as well as your pet. Some pet bathing tubs come with restraints included. With these your dog will be safely and securely restrained and you will be able to give your dog a quick and hassle-free bath.

Is your dog slipping and sliding in the bath?

Slipping and sliding can be the most stressful part of bath time for a dog. Put a rubber mat down on the bottom surface of the tub to prevent your dog from sliding and getting hurt. A sure-footed dog will be less resistant and much more at ease during bath time.

Things to have on hand at bath time:

Raised Dog Bath – This is a fantastic idea for a dog bath. It’s ergonomically designed for both you and your dog’s comfort. Your local pet groomer is likely to have just such a bathing station set up in their shop. If you’re thinking about buying a tub or basin to bathe your dog in, ask them if you can check out their tub set up. If you have the room or more than one dog, you may find it worthwhile.

Pet Shower or Plastic Pitcher – A Pet Shower is great, but if that’s not possible make sure you have a large plastic pitcher for wetting and rinsing your dog.

Drain Screen – Make sure to protect your plumbing from hair clogs with a simple to use drain screen.

Cotton Balls – can be placed in each ear to prevent water from running into your dog’s ears.

Pet Shampoos – There are many different pet shampoos each formulated to work on problems such as dry itchy skin, inflamed or dry scaling skin, fleas & ticks, doggy odor, skunk odor, abnormal shedding, quick rinsing for dogs that don’t like to take a bath, whiteners for white coats, color intensifiers for dark coats, and coat shine to bring out the natural luster of your dog’s coat. You may want to try a hypoallergenic shampoo/conditioner that will gently clean and conditioner your pet’s coat in one step.

Coat Conditioners – There are many pet coat conditioners that will help manage and or improve the appearance of your dog’s coat like crème rinse, grooming spray, after bath dry skin treatment, and herbal mist conditioner that will soothe, re-moisturize and detangle your pet’s coat.

Pet Drying Towels – If you want to get your dog dry faster check out a specialty pet-drying towel. Some are available that will absorb 10 times its own weight in water!

Eye Protective Gel – Are you concerned about shampoo making its way into your dog’s eyes? Just put a little protective eye gel in each eye just before bath time to prevent burning and redness.

Ear Drying Solution – If your dog is prone to ear infections make sure you have some ear-drying solution on hand. Using an ear drying solution will assure that the ear canal is nice and dry after bathing.

Brushes/Combs – There are many different styles and sizes of traditional dog grooming brushes and combs that you can choose from. If your dog has very sensitive or irritated skin you may want to consider a higher quality brush that will not scratch the skin or aggravate existing skin irritations.

Pet Dryer – If your dog has a thick, long or double coat it’s best to use a pet dryer. Unlike “people” hair dryers, pet dryers are designed to use less heat and more air volume so they quickly and safely dry a dog without damaging the coat or burning the skin. If you use a "people" blow dryer be very careful since you can easily burn your pet!

Plastic Bucket – It’s very convenient to have a waterproof container that will keep your dog grooming supplies close at hand.

Remember to get all your dog grooming supplies ready before hand and let your dog sniff everything.

Why you should brush your dog thoroughly before bathing.

Depending on the type of coat your dog has you may need an assortment of grooming brushes and combs to properly care for your dog’s skin and coat. Before you bathe your dog it’s always a good idea to brush your pet’s coat thoroughly to remove any tangles or matted areas as well as any other foreign debris. Many dog owners know first hand that if they don’t spend time removing old, established tangles and mats before bathing many times they just get worse. If your dog’s coat tangles and mats easily make sure to look for shampoos and conditioners that are formulated to prevent and break up mats.

If your dog has gotten into any sticky or gooey substances like tar or gum never use commercial solvents or industrial cleaners on your dog’s coat. Many of these are toxic to your dog. Try dissolving these substances with mineral oil. If you’re unable to remove something from your dog’s coat carefully snip away the affected area. It’s always best to sacrifice some hair or fur since it will grow back rather than risk damage to the skin. Brush your dog thoroughly between baths, daily if you can, to distribute the natural oils and remove tangles, mats and foreign matter.

Choosing the best pet shampoo/coat conditioner for your dog.

Always use a pet shampoo that is specially formulated for the pH of your pet’s skin. Never use “people” shampoos since our skin pH level is much more acidic than our canine friends and could irritate your dog’s skin.

Start bathing your dog at the beginning: Your Dog’s Head.

A popular bathing technique is to start at your dog’s head and work your way toward the tail. This is especially the case if it’s possible that fleas are present. If you know that your dog has fleas you may want to use a flea & tick shampoo. Starting at your dog’s head forces any fleas to gather away from your dog’s face, eyes, and ears. It is much easier to dunk the rear of your dog into the tub than your dog’s face. As you may imagine, your dog is likely to be much more cooperative by following this simple bathing technique.

Let your dog get used to the sound of the running water. If you’re using a tub or basin fill it with a few inches of warm water. Then get your dog into the bath. If you’re using a raised dog bath just secure your dog into the dog bath. Starting from the head thoroughly wet your dog with warm water. You can use a plastic pitcher or a spray nozzle for this task. If you’re using a spray nozzle make sure the spray is not too strong. Never spray water directly onto your dog’s face or genitals.

Apply a pet shampoo/coat conditioner. Follow the instructions on the package. Work it in from the head to the tail. Be sure to get all those nooks and crannies; like the rectum, between the toes, behind the ears and under the chin. Be careful not the get shampoo in your dog’s eyes. If this is a concern you can protect your dog’s eyes by putting some protective eye gel in each eye just before getting your dog into the bath.

Rinse your dog thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo residue can cause skin irritations so make sure you give your dog’s coat a thorough rinsing. Towel drying your pet’s coat in the dog bath will remove some of the excess water before you take your dog out of the tub. Some breeds should never be rubbed, only patted, since their coats easily tangle. Dog owners often prefer to use dedicated pet towels. There are pet drying towels available that will absorb 10 times their weight in water. These are very handy towels to use for a dog bath and can also be used any time your pet gets wet.

Although many dog owners think of bathing their dog as a challenge, with the right approach, supplies, and equipment, you can get through it relatively unscathed. And don’t forget to reward your dog’s good behavior in the bathing process with treats and plenty of loving kindness.

About The Author

Teresa James is the Webmaster of www.Dog-Supplies-Advisor.com a site dedicated to providing dog care advice on a broad range of dog-related topics. Includes articles, frequently asked questions, recommendations, and tips for dog owners.

by: Katherine Durkes

If you think about making your own spa products - such as lotions, body washes, and exfoliating scrubs - you probably think it sounds difficult. It probably brings to mind lots of weird ingredients, chemicals, and slaving away over a hot vat of goo for hours.
After this article, you’ll know that nothing could be further from the truth! In fact, using my method (which I call The Easy Way), making your own bath and body products takes less time than going to the mall, and you get twice the quality of skin care.

The Two Ways Of Making Products - Hard and Easy
There are two ways to make your own bath and body products - The Hard Way, and The Easy Way. The Hard Way means investing a lot of time in books and trial-and-error in your kitchen, and a lot of money in ingredients. Often, you need patience and perseverance as you attempt to make a basic lotion or liquid soap, but it doesn’t come out as well as you’d hoped. Heck, you didn’t even get to the fun part, which adding the scent and color!

The Hard Way Takes Time and Practice
The Hard Way is what is taught in soapmaking classes, websites, and books. It can be fun and rewarding because of the natural ingredients and the high-quality products that result. Shea butter lotions… aloe body washes… If you are prepared to invest the time and money, and you have a lot of patience, The Hard Way does pay off. You get wonderfully moisturizing products in your favorite fragrances - even hard to find ones - that are much better than Bath and Body Works.
The problem is, The Hard Way is often incredibly discouraging to beginners. As they pour their failed body wash down the bathtub drain, most beginners start to wonder if it’s really worth the trouble. Sooner or later, they go back to the mall and pay too much for what is essentially drugstore-quality products in fancy bottles and scents.

Beginners Can Master The Easy Way
The Easy Way of making bath and body products is, well, easy! With The Easy Way, you get all the benefits - the natural ingredients, the high-quality skin care products, and your favorite scents - for only 10% the work. The Hard Way is like baking a fancy Julia Child cake recipe, but The Easy Way is more like making a cake mix.
The Easy Way uses professional unscented product bases (also called "cosmetic bases") that are specially manufactured for this purpose. These bases are made with natural ingredients, such as shea butter, avocado oil, aloe, and goats’ milk, so you still get high quality skin care, the same as if you had made the bases yourself with The Hard Way.

Quickly Make Lotion, Shower Gel, Shampoo, Scrub
You can get unscented bases for almost any liquid product you can think of: body lotion, massage cream, bath oil, shower gel, bubble bath, salon-quality shampoo and conditioner, body scrub, hand soap, and face wash.
Customize High Quality Unscented Products With Your Own Ingredients.
To these basic products, you add your own fragrance, color, and other special ingredients, such as silk proteins and botanical extracts. You can even experiment with natural anti-aging ingredients such as carrot seed oil, green tea extract, and collagen. These ingredients are what makes your products unique!

Just Like The Professionals
If you compare three bottles of shower gel from Bath and Body Works, The Body Shop, and Origins, you will see a lot of similarities in their first few ingredients. That’s because they’re all taking a basic body wash and making their own improvements on it, just like you can with The Easy Way.

About The Author

Katherine Durkes is an experienced teacher of bath and body. She runs a popular website on how to make bath and body products, as well as the Yahoo Group "Home Bath & Body." Her first e-book, "The Fast Guide To Making Bath Bombs (& Fizzies)" has over 10,000 downloads and has been featured on About.com and in Ready Made Magazine.

by: Grand Illusions

If you like your soap natural, you are not alone. While there are many mass-produced soaps out there, natural soap is a nice departure from all of that. All natural can smell just as great as those manufactured soaps, but they are better for your skin as they usually are not nearly as drying or as irritating to your sensitive skin. Handmade natural soap can be purchased for those that want natural soap because they have sensitive skin or because they just don’t want to treat their skin with chemicals, which is what a lot of the mass produced soaps contain.

Natural handmade soap doesn’t have to be all that expensive, although some people think that it is and that is what keeps them from buying it. Often times, handmade all natural soap is actually cheaper than the soap that you can buy at your typical grocery store or drug store, because the natural ingredients are cheaper to buy. Handmade and natural soap can also be made by the consumers themselves, which can make it even cheaper to use and keep using! The great thing about buying natural soaps or making them yourself is that it is often cheaper and it often smells just as great as anything else that you could buy!
If you are looking for something that is clearly natural soap you should be sure to check out the ingredients and be sure that there isn’t anything in it that you are adverse to. Pure and natural soap usually does not contain harsh cleansers or alcohol that will dry out the skin. These soaps can be purchased in health food stores, online, or can even be made by you!

Grand Illusions was created by Nick Ronald and David Roberts in December 1987, initially with just one small store in St Margaret’s, Twickenham. The mission was to promote gifts, cards and accessories of good design and taste at an affordable price - still very much the core business ethic to this day.
Shortly afterwards, they discovered and developed a paint range that was to transform their lives. In those days, painted furniture was something of a rarity, and a twenty two drawer chest painted in one of the new paints caught the eye of ‘Homes & Gardens’ magazine - the small feature resulted in over a thousand telephone calls and the seeds of the highly acclaimed furniture collection were sewn.
This also led to the publication of three Grand Illusions books on decorating techniques and design inspiration, published in five countries by Ebury Press and accompanied by guest appearances on BBC2’s Home Front and various local BBC radio stations.

They published their first mail-order catalogue in 1990 which was immediately voted as one of the top 200 catalogues in a new worldwide review and several issues later, they were awarded the contract to operate ‘Country Living by Post’ on behalf of the magazine, in addition to their own unique programme.
Today, the company’s activities are currently concentrated on their two stores in St Margarets and Shaftesbury, with mail-order, paint studio, trade-sales and distribution also located in Dorset. The team regularly exhibit at quality retail and trade fairs like Country Living, Top Drawer and the RHS Flower Shows at Chelsea, Hampton Court and Tatton Park. Their products are now available at quality retail outlets across the UK and some stores in Japan, USA and Germany.

The publication of this web-site sees the return to mainstream mail-order for the accessory collection, which is just one of the exciting developments planned for the near future - so watch this space.

About The Author

Grand Illusions was created by Nick Ronald and David Roberts in December 1987, initially with just one small store in St Margaret’s, Twickenham. The mission was to promote gifts, cards and accessories of good design and taste at an affordable price - still very much the core business ethic to this day. http://www.grandillusions.co.uk

• Aloe Vera Pet Shampoo
• Doggie Deoderant & Dry Bath
• Solid Doggie Shampoo Bar
• Skunk Deoderizing Shampoo Recipe
• Washing Your Dog
• What to do if your dog is sprayed by a skunk

• Aromatherapy Recipes
• Aromatherapy Recipes Using Essential Oils
• Blend Recipe Search - Enter at least two essential oils to find blends containing those two oils.
• Cat Turner’s Blending Suggestions - How to blend essential oils and/or fragrant oils. Dozens of perfume blends made from essential and fragrant oils, including copycat recipes for famous perfumes.
• Creating Synergies
• Perfumer’s Formulary
• Recipe Category Scent Blends
• Scent Blends
• Scent Blends
• Scent Blends & Mixtures
• Scents of the Middle Ages
• Summer Scent Blends
• Winter Scent Blends

Infusions - The weakest of preparations, infusions are useful for hydrating the skin. Steep 1 ounce of herb leaves or flowers in 1 pint of simmering (200F) water for about 5 minutes. Do not boil. Let cool to room temperature. Soak a washcloth in some of the liquid, then apply it to the skin. You may also use an infusion as a toner, soother, or astringent.

Decoctions - A decoction is used to same way as an infusion, but is more potent. Boil 1 ounce of the chopped, dried bark, chopped roots, and/or seeds of an herb in 1 pint of boiling water for at least 15 minutes and as long as 24 hours (bark, roots, and seeds require a longer boiling time to release their active constituents).

Macerations - Like decoctions, macerations are concentrated, potent herbal preparations. Fill a sterilized jar with crushed herbs, dried or fresh, using 1 ounce of herb for every pint of liquid. Cover with vegetable oil, cider vinegar, and rubbing alcohol or grain alcohol such as vodka. Cover the jar and let the mixture stand for two weeks; shake the jar daily.

Strain the liquid into a sterilized bottle, cap, and store in the refrigerator. Warm to room temperature before using. Oil macerations may be used as massage treatments; vinegars as toners, hair rinses, or in foot soaks; and alcohols, as toners, astringents, antiseptics, or cleansers. Macerations will keep in the refrigerator for as long as two months.

Poultices - These draw out impurities from the pores. Place a handful of herbs in a cup and moisten them with water heated to about 200F. Allow them to cool enough so they won’t burn your skin, then wrap them in cheesecloth or muslin. Apply the poultice to the skin; remove it when cool.